12 Days of Christmas - Braemar, the Snow Roads

On the second day of Christmas, the wee yin said to me …… Let's go Braemar.

Although beautiful Braemar is the town, we are highlighting today our trip was actually to drive the Cairngorms Snow Roads. I’ve mentioned the snow roads to a few friends previously, and no one was even aware of the route so a bit of housekeeping first. The Cairngorm Snow Roads are a 90-mile roundtrip starting in Blairgowrie and ending in Grantown-on-Spey. The roads snake through the Cairngorm National Park and take in some outstanding towns and villages such as Ballater (stunning), Tomintoul and of course Braemar. The route has spectacular scenery from start to finish and also has the highest public road in Great Britain. Another huge factor is the potential for Wildlife viewing, keep your eyes peeled! On my first trip, I spotted a pine martin crossing a road late one night—a massive tick off the list, massive. 

It doesn't really matter what time of year you decide to take on the Snow Roads as our ever-changing seasons offer their own particular sense of beauty. I’ve done this a few times now, but my favourite is during autumn or at the start of the year when there is still snow on the ground. The road is super popular with those in the know and on my last tour we witnessed Land Rover testing their latest high-end vehicles camouflaged to hide the contours. I believe Top Gear has used it for filming.

All up to speed? Ok, so we can begin.

Starting off early from Glasgow we had got into Blairgowrie super early. Breakfast in the van of boiled eggs and toast, and then we are off. Straight away, we are into the wilderness and delighted to see some snow. Our initial drive is only for around an hour however we make plenty of stops along the way for pictures, particularly at the Devils Elbow where we have the first of the Connecting Contours scenic route installations - and then onto the Glenshee Ski Resort. 

Finally, we get into town. Braemar is such an iconic village in Deeside, famous for the nearby Royal residence of Balmoral Castle and the annual Highland Games - the Gathering! I believe Her Majesty is a regular attendee. Braemar has always been popular with walkers, skiers, climbers, bikers and travellers. The village always, always presents itself exceptionally well. For this trip, we decided to use the Braemar Caravan Park A lovely spot we've used on numerous occasions, extremely well-run, fantastic facilities and most importantly, a short walk into town for dinner and drinks after a long day adventuring. 

After getting checked in, we drove off in the direction of Ballater to visit the Linn of Dee waterfalls and forestry walks. Worth noting here there is a car park available with ample spaces however it’s £3 per day for non-members or free for National Trust for Scotland/National Trust members. Yet another reason to support our National Trust for Scotland

The falls and forest are a great walk and its fantastic to see so many brave the cold waters of the River Dee for an icy dip! Here we made our excuses and left!! In all seriousness, the falls are gorgeous, its fascinating to see the whole river squeezed down to around a meter, such force. It would be even better to see on a rainy day.

Time for a spot of food, coffee and a wander around the town. For food we thought we would give Taste Braemar a go, tasty local produce served with a smile. Simple and very effective. A special mention for the coffee here, just gorgeous.  Full up, it was time for the shops. It proved hard to get Lorna out of The Braemar Gallery it has such a beautiful collection of unique Scottish arts, a real treasure trove,. My favourite was McLean of Braemar a very particular gift shop with a solemn nod towards the magnificent Red Deer of the area. It would seem absolutely everything is better with a little horn! Who’d have thought? I have always wanted a set of antlers, perhaps next time. 

You know a wee special shout out goes to the staff of the local Co-op, always friendly, always smiling and very helpful.  These people in the shops up and down the country from early till late, day in day out deserve our praise, particularly this year. 

The big treat tonight was a visit to the refurbished Fife Arms and ‘the Clunie’ restaurant. This place is an institution in the area, made super famous back in Queen Victoria’s time. The interior has to be seen to be believed. Contemporary, decadent, flamboyant! I just don’t have the words to describe it; we just loved it. The food and service were exceptional and every course containing a hint of the local area devoured. We moved into the Stag bar, again an outstanding interior, for a wee dram @thebalvenie before heading along the road for a final nightcap in Farquharsons Bar and Kitchen, an old favourite. Great beers and atmosphere the perfect finish to a lovely day.

I guess we now just need to score some tickets for the Braemar Gathering …...any offers?

COVID Blues

As Lorna and I were watching the news reports from China about COVID19 I asked her if she thought this might affect my summer bookings. Within 72 hours the diaries for both the vans, Mork & Mindy, along with my fallback Airbnb flat had been cleared, all bookings cancelled. COVID19 had arrived for me! 

Initial thoughts were for the people coming to Scotland on vacation and reassuring them about their deposits. I didn't want to take a % or hold onto them; you can't punish someone for something entirely outside their control. Given the uncertainty, I expected everyone would want the money back asap! But the generosity from the majority was overwhelming; some instantly responded to my email showing more concern for me, my well-being and the company instead of their money. A few, in particular, stand out. Kirsten from Canada, aka @mistresskofos on Instagram, responded to say they fully intended to get to Scotland when this is finished. She continued that I should "hold onto the total payment" received for a two-week trip. Kirsten knew my business world was folding in on itself and wanted to help keep me going. I just didn't expect that kind of caring and understanding. Will aka @willrhickman on Instagram, mailed straight back to acknowledge what was happening. He then offered to pay the full amount and that we will rearrange, just incredible! Finally, Ethan & Laura aka @lauraramsden & @ethanconlin91 came back to say the same things, "we want you to hold onto the deposit as your service to date has been fantastic ". Just when I thought I was staring into a small business abyss, they picked me up, genuinely humbling.  

That week Lorna had some time off work and I was determined to get her away a few days respite before the anticipated “tsunami”. Lorna works for the NHS, and we expected she would be busy!  We decided to aim for Glenfinnan Monument; I’ve driven past the signs at Fort William so many times but never visited Bonnie Prince Charlie. He certainly didn’t disappoint, and we enjoyed gorgeous sunshine while wandering around also taking in the famous viaduct.—both top iconic Scottish views.

As the sun was shining we decided to chase a sunset, the nearest point being Arisaig and the breathtaking Silver Sands of Morar. We were gobsmacked; it was stunning; I mean real, not Instagram faked! Parked on the beach, we knew Mother nature was about to give us a show. She didn't disappoint! The setting was perfect, looking onto the islands of Skye, Rum & Eigg, watching the sun slowly sink we had our very own wee Cafe Del Mar. The campervan was pre-packed with all our food and drink so no need to shop anywhere else, and after sunset, we cooked up steaks and inhaled a glass or 2 of wine—what a start. 

The next day after breakfast on the beach we caught the @calmacferries ferry from Mallaig to Skye for an overnighter as Lorna hadn't seen much of the island. A short ferry trip in glorious sunshine was too good to miss. There is something special about our local ferry connections if you live near one you take it for granted. The service to these beautiful islands is essential, and it's great to see all kinds of folk, locals and tourists, take advantage of the hop between.

Once docked, we drove to see the Fairy Glens, climbed the Old Man of Storr and walk the Quiraing. Listen, if you're Scottish and you haven't been to Skye, you really need too, it's just incredible and impossible to do justice in words or even pictures. With clear blue skies, we again wanted a sunset, and that could only mean heading to Neist Point lighthouse. As we had decided to park up here for the evening, we took a bottle of wine over to sit near - not too near - the cliffs and watch the show. The ever-changing colours on the landscape, along with the iconic lighthouse, are hard to beat. We take for granted the light in Scotland, the stunning colours we accept without wonder. It's good to stop, breath and appreciate how lucky we are. After another fantastic meal - cooked by yours truly - we hit the bed early as we wanted to catch the sunrise. In the van, we tend to sleep in the upstairs bunk, leave the mess downstairs until the morning. It's a bit like being in a tent but very comfortable.

In the morning over coffee, things had begun to filter through that the locals were growing anxious about tourists, possibly bringing COVID to the remote and sparsely supported communities. Instantly we decided to drive home. Supporting our rural communities is essential, and it was disappointing to see convoys of caravans, campervans and motorhomes of all sizes going in the opposite direction. We all know that was soon to change and rightly so. Getting back to Glasgow the day before Lockdown was announced was a huge relief.

To survive in Lockdown, the company has had to make some big cuts. Firstly giving up my van storage unit which we had worked so hard on last year. I had no option, we had to remove all overheads straight away. I've also taken a job delivering groceries to get me through this lean time. This, along with my customer's generosity, means the company will be ready to rock and roll as soon as we are in more understanding time.

Through the company, we have met some lovely people, in particular, the @adventureharlots who describe themselves as "Fi and Shirl taking on adventures in Scotland. Living our way, our terms, over 50s inspiration and giggles". The girl's regular messages and upbeat attitudes have made things so much easier. I look forward to getting up the Munros with the girls soon as we are allowed back.  

On a positive note, as we begin to look forward, I've now received two pre-bookings and several notes of interest. Obviously, that's great to see; however, as I mentioned earlier, I will always put our local communities first. Only when the local communities are ready and comfortable with visitors will I be allowing my vans to travel. If areas such as the Hebrides have requested no visitors, I won't let my vans to go in that direction, no arguments. Mork and Mindy themselves will be thoroughly sanitised before and after any trips, and I will have done my utmost to ensure the safety of my guests. Customers always have been and will remain to be the priority. If you're wondering where you can go on holiday safely when Lockdown lifts, think about all that Scotland has to offer. Do your bit and help support local businesses and enjoy the flexibility, freedom to roam in your self contained home away from home. Drop me a message for further information.

Looking to the future, I'm working on a more cost-effective 'long weekender' van. This will be aimed at those wishing to go hill walking, snowboarding, running, cycling and all the outdoor pursuits Scotland is famous for. The van will be whatever you want with different options on kit available. Something I think will be more appealing to people on tight budgets or with limited time. Keep your eyes posted.  

Stay safe, be kind and keep believing.