Today's trip was inspired by a great set of lads, Lluc and Jeff who had hired Mindy specifically to visit Mull, the first for me. Nearly all my guest speak about Skye and forget there are other just as exciting islands, Arran is another for example. I always try to advise people to consider Mull, one of my best prepared itinerates takes in Mull.
We set off bright and early catching the Western Ferry from Gourock to Dunoon. We do love going North this way. The Loch Lomond road can be slow and awkward. With so much traffic, the driver - me - has to be totally focussed and usually misses the scenery. From Dunoon, we head up to Oban via Inverary and the incredible Loch Fyne.
The CalMac ferry to Mull regularly runs from Oban to Craignure. I would suggest it is always better to book ahead just in case things are busy. Oban itself deserves a special mention. A great town and we shall give more info on that another time. Unfortunately, we were just passing through and made a quick stop at the local supermarket to stock up on supplies, onto the ferry which lasts approximately 45 minutes and is a lovely wee cruise, incredible scenery and the chance to spot some wildlife. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins or even Sea Eagles!
Mull has so many fascinating attractions it always surprises me the lack of guests who have even heard of it, I know many Scots who won't have ventured over. It offers the opportunity to see a wide variety of wildlife including golden eagles, seals, sea otters and even pods of dolphins just off the coast. Other huge attractions such as a trip to Staffa and Fingals Cave are a must along with Iona and it mystical Abbey.
When you arrive, you have two choices, left or right. Right takes you on the 'main road' to Tobermory or left and head to the beach at Fidden near Fionnphort. We went left and off to Fidden Farm Campsite a spectacular spot to take in sunsets, honestly it's amazing. One of the finest spots in the UK.
The Iona ferry leaves near from here so very handy. Remember these will be single-track roads, and the locals need to go about their daily business, always be courteous. Also worth noting journeys will take longer than expected. Mull is surprisingly big and full of winding single-track roads. Great to drive but rightly slow.
Our first trip was with Staffa Tours, a three hour trip including around an hour on Staffa island. Highlights here are the cliffs and substantial grassy slopes that host various nesting seabirds including guillemots, razorbills and puffins and of course, Fingals Cave! It's absolutely extraordinary with massive pillars rising out of the swirling sea. The caves are just otherworldly with crashing waves and bird noise all around, a real must. Unfortunately, for a variety of reason we didn't make Iona on this trip. Just another reason to return.
We then headed up the west coast, taking in wee towns and villages along the way. The scenery is spectacular and around Loch Ne Keal breath-taking.
Today we are heading for Tobermory. Tobermory must have one of the most famous harbours in the world, the brightly coloured houses are now a trademark. It's a lovely wee town bustling fishermen and tourists. Lorna had noted several local places or shops to be more accurate that she wanted to visit. I was happy to knock around the harbour, and people watch. Here we get a spectacular looking seafood platter at the Tobermory Fish Company to take away for tonight's dinner. As is always on the West Coast of Scotland, choose the local seafood, it's unrivalled. Lorna had been round various places and had gifts of Candles from Isle of Mull Soap Co. Most importantly we also stopped by the distillery and got a bottle of Tobermory Hebridean gin. Onward then to pick up some Cheeses out at the Isle of Mull cheese farm. Time for a coffee and a stop off at the glorious Glass Barn Café, a big huge glass greenhouse with grapevines growing over the interior walls and ceilings. Great scones!
Stocked up and refreshed it was now off for tonight's destination, the white sands of Calgary Bay.
In the Northwest of Mull, we find Calgary Bay, a beach I rate up there with any I have seen in the world. If you have not heard of it, Google the pictures, breath-taking. Last year I had a friend visit from Sydney, and he compared it to the finest of Sydney's Eastern shores-very high praise indeed. Don't be fooled though by the white sands nor, on our day, bright blue skies, the water was absolutely freezing cold, even in summer.
This was just the most perfect place to spend a night. We absolutely devoured the seafood and the cheeses, all washed down with a few large gins. Tonight was some old school tunes and watching the stars. Perfect!
A short whistle-stop tour that really was nowhere near enough time. If you have done Skye then this is your next destination, you won't be disappointed.
